12 Fancy Cut Diamonds and Secret Buying Techniques

If you love standing out, fancy cut diamonds are your perfect match!

Many of our closest customers eventually shift their interest toward collecting fancy cut diamonds as their diamond collection grows. Most people are familiar with the round-shaped diamond, but when you wear other shapes like the heart or square, you stand out in the most elegant way. Fancy cut diamonds offer unique shapes that add flavor and beauty to your jewelry.

In this article, we’ll share our knowledge of the most popular diamond shapes. Use this as a guide to help you select a shape that resonates with you and your story, to be passed down for generations.

1. Round Brilliant Cut Diamond

Round brilliant cut diamonds are the most popular diamond shape, making up around 2 in 3 of all diamonds sold worldwide. Their popularity dates back to 1919 when Marcel Tolkowsky published a book analyzing the light reflection and refraction of diamonds, concluding that round diamonds deliver the best brilliance.

Round diamonds are polished with 58 facets, reflecting light brilliantly and creating that signature sparkle.

• Secret Buying Technique
  The diamond's cut quality is key when selecting one. Even a D color grade diamond can appear cloudy if the cut quality is poor. Ensure that your diamond comes with a GIA or HRD report, and look for a cut graded as “3 Excellence” or at least “Very Good” to guarantee beauty and radiance.

• Pros
  Round diamonds are popular for a reason—they offer unmatched brilliance and a timeless, classic look. They're perfect for engagement rings, necklaces, and other fine jewelry pieces.

Round diamonds are popular for a reason—they offer unmatched brilliance and a timeless, classic look. They're perfect for engagement rings, necklaces, and other fine jewelry pieces.

Read more: Our ultimate guide to buying 1 carat diamonds

2. Princess Cut Diamond

Princess cut diamonds are the second most popular fancy cut, after round diamonds. They feature a square shape and offer better fire and brilliance than other similarly shaped diamonds. On rare occasions, you may come across a rectangular princess cut, which is quite special.

• Secret Buying Technique
  Since princess cut diamonds have sharp corners, we recommend a prong setting on all four sides to prevent chipping. This will also help camouflage any flaws the diamond might have.

• Pros
  Princess cut diamonds offer a classic look with brilliance comparable to round diamonds, but at a more affordable price.

3. Emerald Cut Diamond

The emerald cut gets its name from the technique initially used to cut emeralds. Later adapted for diamonds, this cut stands out with a larger surface area, allowing it to reflect light from within its step-like facets.

Most emerald cut diamonds are rectangular, though square variations exist.

• Secret Buying Technique
  Emerald cuts expose flaws more easily due to their large surface area. We recommend choosing a clarity level of VS2 or higher to minimize the visibility of imperfections.

• Pros
  Emerald cuts maximize the appearance of size. If you're looking for a larger diamond but have a limited budget, an emerald cut can give you that big, bold look at a more accessible price point.

4. Cushion Cut Diamond

Cushion cut diamonds feature a square shape with soft, rounded edges, resembling a pillow. Expertly cut, they offer brilliant sparkle.

Cushion cuts come in various options—standard, modified, and modern—so you can tailor the look to your personal style.

• Secret Buying Technique
  For optimal symmetry and fire, we recommend choosing a cushion cut with depth and face width no more than 70%.

• Pros
  Cushion cuts offer customization and a luxurious look, blending classic elegance with a modern touch.

5. Asscher Cut Diamond

The Asscher cut was developed by the Asscher Brothers of Holland in 1902. It shares some similarities with the emerald cut but has a deeper, more intricate step-like appearance, offering brilliance from within.

• Secret Buying Technique
  Asscher cuts reveal their true colors more than round or princess cuts. We recommend choosing a color grade above H and clarity levels of VS or higher for the best results.
• Pros
  The Asscher cut’s deep pavilion and intricate details create stunning brilliance. Its high crown offers more sparkle than the emerald cut.

6. Pear Shaped Diamond

The pear-shaped diamond, with its soft taper, is a classic symbol of grace and elegance. Often worn with the sharp end pointing toward the wearer’s heart, it symbolizes a love that is both beautiful and enduring.

• Secret Buying Technique
  Pay attention to the diamond’s middle section, which should sparkle evenly—neither too much nor too little. Consulting an expert to examine its shine is your best bet.
• Pros
  Pear-shaped diamonds have a unique charm and are perfect for engagement rings. They are also great at hiding flaws and are more affordable than round diamonds of similar size.

7. Oval Cut Diamond

The oval cut has similar brilliance to the round diamond but offers a unique, elongated appearance. This shape tends to look larger than round diamonds of the same carat, thanks to its extended face.

• Secret Buying Technique
  When selecting an oval diamond, check the shine in the center, much like with pear-shaped diamonds.

• Pros
  The lack of sharp angles makes oval diamonds highly durable and less prone to chipping. They are also more affordable than round diamonds, while offering a similar look.

8. Heart Shaped Diamond

The heart-shaped diamond is the ultimate symbol of love and can be used for any type of jewelry—rings, pendants, earrings, or more. Each heart-shaped diamond is unique in its proportions, making them truly personal.

• Secret Buying Technique
  For heart-shaped diamonds, we recommend choosing a carat weight of at least 1 or 2 to make it the centerpiece of a ring. For smaller diamonds, a three-prong setting will enhance its beauty.

• Pros
  Besides being a symbol of love, heart-shaped diamonds increase in value over time, as they require a premium cut for perfection.

9. Radiant Cut Diamond

Radiant cut diamonds were all the rage in the 1980s, thanks to their brilliance, second only to round diamonds. The radiant cut features numerous facets at the edges, creating a cracked-ice effect.

• Secret Buying Technique
  Radiant diamonds do a good job of hiding color, so you can opt for an H color grade or above and invest more in improving the diamond’s cut.

• Pros
  The radiant cut’s facets hide flaws and its cut-off edges increase durability, making it a great choice for those with an active lifestyle.

10. Marquise Cut Diamond

The marquise cut was famously created by royal jewelers for King Louis XIV of France, and it remains a timeless favorite. Its slender, elongated shape helps fingers appear longer and more elegant.

• Secret Buying Technique
  Symmetry is key for marquise diamonds. Ensure both ends curve perfectly and that flaws are located near the edges, where they’re less noticeable once set.

• Pros
  Marquise diamonds look larger than other diamonds of the same carat weight and make the wearer’s fingers look slimmer.

11. Baguette Cut Diamond

Baguette cut diamonds are rectangular and feature 24 parallel facets. These diamonds are often used as accents surrounding a larger center stone.

• Secret Buying Technique
  Baguette cut diamonds are often used in "illusion cuts," where several small diamonds are placed together to mimic the look of a single large diamond, offering significant cost savings.
• Pros
  With a rectangular shape and wide table, baguette diamonds offer more carat weight for their size and are a hallmark of classic style.

12. Trillion Cut Diamond

Trillion cut diamonds are bold and unique, featuring a triangular shape that captures attention with its brilliance. This shape is perfect for those who love something unconventional.

• Secret Buying Technique
  For trillion cut diamonds used as a center stone, we recommend a three-prong setting to protect the edges from chipping.
• Pros The triangle shape of trillion diamonds gives the wearer a modern and dynamic look, while the large table makes them appear larger than their carat size suggests.

Diamond Shape VS Diamond Cut – What’s the Difference?

People often confuse “diamond shape” with “diamond cut,” but they’re not the same.

• Diamond Shape refers to the overall form or geometry of the diamond, such as round, heart, or triangle.
• Diamond Cut refers to the quality of the diamond's facets, symmetry, and proportions. A poor cut can make even the most beautiful shape look dull, while a well-cut diamond will sparkle and shine.

Read more: What is an 'ideal cut diamond' and what makes it different?

Conclusion: Fancy Cut Diamonds Could Be the Perfect Fit for You!

Understanding different diamond shapes opens up more possibilities for your next purchase. Whether you buy online or in-store, we hope you share the knowledge from this article with your friends. At Above Diamond, our goal is to share insights that help diamond buyers make the best decisions.

Remember, the most important thing when buying a diamond is selecting one that feels right for you—whether it complements your personality, style, or the special occasion. For an engagement ring, ensure the ring will leave your partner in awe, every time they see it.

If you’re still unsure which fancy cut diamond suits you best, contact us and we’ll help you find the perfect match.

Read more: In-depth look at 15 popular engagement ring styles