Last Updated on 23/05/2022 by Wit Sudjaiampun

12 Fancy Cut Diamonds and Secret Buying Techniques

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Knowing what type of fancy cut diamonds are popular will help you easily make the purchase decision on which shape of diamond you should get.

If you are someone who loves to stand out… fancy cut diamonds are the way to go for you!

My closest customers will often turn their interest more towards collecting fancy cut diamonds once they have reached a certain point in their diamond collection journey.

Most people are only familiar with the round shaped diamond, making you look strange and exotic when you wear other diamond shapes such as the heart shape or the square shape. It is a flavor of life that diamonds are able to give to you and your close ones.

Fancy Cut Diamonds will each have their own distinct shapes which affect the quality, the beauty and the different price tags.

In this article, I am set on sharing my knowledge of the different diamond shapes that have received the most popularity. You can use this article as a tool to help your decision to select a diamond shape which speaks most to your heart and pass it down to the generations that come after you.

diamond size shape chart

1. Round Brilliant Cut Diamond

Round Brilliant Cut Diamond

When talking about this topic, it is almost impossible to not mention that round brilliant cut diamonds are the most popular diamond of all times. It makes up around 2 in 3 of every diamond sold in the world.

The origin of this popularity is speculated to have come from a book written by Marcel Tolkowsky that was printed in 1919. The book analyzed the reflection and refraction of light in diamonds, he said in his book that round diamonds give the best brilliance. This caused a lot of noise with the public and is the reason that round diamonds have received such popularity till this day.

The round diamond cuts are well polished, they are able to reflect light brilliantly with eye-pleasing sparkles because of their 58 facets.

  • Secret Buying Technique
    The diamond cut quality is the essence of selecting a diamond. It has the biggest effect on a diamond’s beauty, even if a diamond has D color grade, it can still look cloudy and without brilliance if the cut quality is low.

    That is why if you are buying a diamond that comes with a GIA or HRD diamond report, you pay attention to whether or not its cut quality is a “3 Excellence” or at the very least “Very Good” so that the diamond you receive will be beautiful and radiant.

  • Round Brilliant Cut Diamond ring

  • Pros
    There are several reasons why round diamonds have received their popularity, the main reason being that they are undoubtedly brilliant. They also give a more timeless classic look to its wearer.
    And so round diamonds are a great choice for engagement rings, necklaces and other jewelries.

Read more: Our 2020 buying guide to 1 carat diamonds

2. Princess Cut Diamond

Princess Cut Diamond

Princess Cut Diamonds are fancy cut diamonds that are only second to the round diamonds in popularity.

Princess Cut Diamonds will have a square shape and will also have better fire and brilliance than the other fancy cut diamonds with similar shapes. If you are lucky, you might get to see a rectangle princess cut diamond which is considered rare.

  • Secret Buying Technique
    The four edges of princess cut diamonds are sharp, to prevent chipping and breaking, we recommend you to use a prong setting for all 4 sides. This could also help camouflage the diamond’s flaws.
  • Princess Cut Diamond ring

  • Pros
    Princess Cut Diamonds give its wearer a classic look whilst still having a level of brilliance and fire comparable to the round cut diamonds. More importantly, the princess cut diamonds’ price tags are also substantially lower than the round diamonds.

3. Emerald Cut Diamond

Emerald Cut Diamond

The name of this type of diamond is derived from a technique emerald jewelers used in the past. Later, it was adapted to be used on diamonds and so the emerald cut diamonds were born.

Emerald Cut Diamonds stands out with its larger face, and so it is able to receive and reflect light better. The light it receives will reflect onto its interior which is cut into a step-like shape.

This type of diamond is most commonly seen in rectangles, however, there are also some square variations.

  • Secret Buying Technique
    Because Emerald Cut Diamonds has such a wide face, their flaws are more easily noticeable than the other shapes. I recommend you choose a clarity level of VS2 or higher to ensure that the flaws will not be too noticeable.
  • Emerald Cut Diamond ring

  • Pros
    The main advantage the emerald diamond cut holds over other fancy shapes is that it is a diamond shape that can clearly show its greatness in size. When compared to other diamonds of the same carat, it is a good option for those who have a limited budget but also desire to wear a big diamond ring.

4. Cushion Cut Diamond

Cushion Cut Diamond

Cushion Cut Diamonds has a square shape with soft edges, it looks similar to a cushion. Its curved parts have been cut expertly, making them able to sparkle radiantly.

Cushion Cut Diamonds are different from other diamond shapes in its various specification options for you to choose from – standard, modified and modern.

  • Secret Buying Technique
    To ensure that your cushion cut diamond looks symmetrical and has excellent fire, we recommend you find a cut with the depth and face width being no more than 70%/
  • Cushion Cut Diamond ring

  • Pros
    Because of the various options you can choose from, you can customize this type of diamond to your wish, it also gives a feeling of luxury. It is a classic fashion accessory with a hint of modern styles.

5. Asscher Cut Diamond

Asscher Cut Diamond

The Asscher Cut diamond originated from a diamond cutting company called “Asscher Brothers of Holland” which started cutting this type of diamond in the Netherlands in 1902. The cut is still highly received 100 years after it was first conceived. In 2002 there was a minor adjustment to the cutting method.

This shape of diamond is a good looking option for those who have admired the emerald cut because of its similarity. The Asscher Cut will have a smaller face and a deeper step-like play inside and so the brilliance will truly shine from the inners of the diamond.

The soft edges of this diamond style make it look more tasteful whilst also giving it a more stable feel.

  • Secret Buying Technique
    When talking about color, The Asscher Cut diamonds are not as good as concealing their true colors as the round diamonds or the princess cut diamonds. This is because they are cut in a way that improves clarity and shininess and so they are not able to hide their flaws. I recommend you to choose color grades higher than H and clarity levels higher than VS if you would like to purchase this type of diamond.
  • Pros
    Because the Asscher Diamond Cut has a deep pavilion and many precise details, it has charmed many enthusiasts. Even though it has a similar appearance to the emerald cut, the Asshcher cut actually has more brilliance because of its higher crown.

6. Pear Shaped Diamond

Pear Shaped Diamond

Its soft shape that symmetrically tapers into a pear is why the Pear Shaped Diamond is widely accepted in its perfect classic look. It can be said that this diamond cut is truly inspired by nature.

Pear Shaped Diamonds that are used in engagement rings will often have the sharp end of the diamond pointed towards the heart of the wearer as a symbol of a love which is striving and sure.

  • Secret Buying Technique
    Pear Shaped Diamonds stands out because of its shiny middle-section which is shaped like a rabbit’s ear. You select a diamond with the right amount of shine, not too much nor too little. You could also consult an expert to help you examine the diamond as that would be your best option.
  • Pros
    Pear Shaped Diamonds have a smooth charm that is difficult to put into words and so it is highly appropriate to be used as a centerpiece of an engagement ring. It is also a rare shape, making it an interesting choice. When compared to other round diamonds. More importantly, pear shaped diamonds are great at hiding its flaws.

7. Oval Cut Diamond

Oval Cut Diamond

The Oval Cut Diamond has similar shape and edges to a round diamond, its fire and brilliance are also very similar whilst being able to give a different look and style because of its longer face – making this type of diamond seem larger when compared to other diamonds of the same carat.

  • Secret Buying Technique
    Selecting an Oval Cut Diamond is similar to selecting a pear shaped diamond, you should examine the shine of the “rabbit’s ear” on the face of the diamond.
  • Oval Cut Diamond ring

  • Pros
    Oval Cut Diamonds holds one over the other diamond cuts in its durability, because there are no edges or sharp angles, you do not have to worry about breaking or chipping it. It is also similar to the round diamond in shape with a lower price tag.

8. Heart Shaped Diamond

Heart Shaped Diamond

Heart Shaped Diamonds are the ultimate symbol of love. With its distinctive heart shape, it can be used to accompany any jewelry piece – engagement rings, pendants, earrings or other jewelries.

Each heart shaped diamond is different in its characteristics, the length and the width are varied – it is entirely up to your taste.

Usually, a heart shaped diamond will have a proportional left and right side to make the diamond look symmetrical and full. You should also pay attention to its edges and points, to see whether or not the clarity is good or if there are any chipping or if the points are crooked.

  • Secret Buying Technique
    Because of the heart shaped diamond’s clear difference in shape, you should buy this type of diamond that is over 1 or 2 carat in weight, to be used as a center-piece of a setting – this will make it beautifully eye-catching.
    If you are purchasing a heart shaped diamond of a lower carat weight, you should use a prong setting with 3 prongs because it will make the diamond much more notable.
  • Heart Shaped Diamond ring

  • Pros
    Other than being a symbol of love, its value also grows over time because to creating this type of diamond requires a precise premium cut.

9. Radiant Cut Diamond

Radiant Cut Diamond

Radiant Cut Diamonds was highly popular and in-trend during the 1980s because of its brilliance that is only second to the round shaped diamonds.

This shape of diamond is an interesting option because grouped facets near the edges of the diamond which creates a bright sparkle.

Other than this, the sharp edges of this type of diamonds makes it a good option to match and pair it with round diamonds or triangular diamonds on the same piece of jewelry.

  • Secret Buying Technique
    Generally, noticing the subtle difference in color of a radiant cut diamond is difficult when just using your eyes, and so you are able to buy this shape of diamond from the H color grade and up as it will already look fine. You can also focus the left over color budget and upgrade the diamond’s cut instead.
  • Radiant Cut Diamond ring

  • Pros
    The cut of radiant diamonds involves many facets and edges which all contribute to creating a similar appearance to a cracked ice. This is an advantage as this shape of diamonds are much better at hiding its flaws than the other shapes – the cut off edges also reinforce the durability of the diamond, making it suitable for those who have an active lifestyle.

10. Marquise Cut Diamond

Marquise Cut Diamond

Legend has it that the Marquise Cut Diamond was born when King Louis XIV of France ordered his jewelers to cut his diamond in accordance to the shape of his very consort – since then, the Marquise Cut Diamond has been highly received until this day.

With a slender and full shape similar to a rice grain, when viewed at a horizontal angle it appears similar to a beautifully shaped eye. When worn, it helps the wearer’s fingers to appear more elongated and pleasing to the eye.

  • Secret Buying Technique
    Because of its slender shape, symmetry is one of the most important factors you should consider when selecting this shape. You should ensure that the two points that curve into each other are at the same 180 degrees angle.
    When this type of diamond is on a jewelry piece, two prongs will hold each end of the diamond, making sure that there is no play. This means that the closer the flaw is to the edge of the Marquise diamond, the better.
  • Marquise Cut Diamond ring

  • Pros
    Because of its above average length, the Marquise diamond will appear larger than other diamonds of the same carat whilst also making the wearer’s fingers seem slimmer and longer. This is suitable for those who have a plump finger-bone structure.

11. Baguette Cut Diamond

Baguette Cut Diamond

Baguette Cut Diamonds has the shape of a rectangle. The 24 facets are lined in a parallel and its clarity is distinctive.

  • Secret Buying Technique
    Baguette Cut Diamonds are often used as smaller diamonds that are decorated around the center-piece diamond because it is great at putting emphasis on the main diamond without drawing attention.
    This type of diamond is also often used as an “illusion cut”, where several baguette cut diamonds are pieced together to look like a single large diamond. This will greatly reduce the budget as the price tag is much lower than a single loose diamond.

  • Pros
    Because of its wide table and rectangular shape, baguette diamonds will appear to have more carat weight than it actually has. It also has great clarity and simple symmetry which is why it has remained as a symbol of the forever classic style.

12. Trillion Cut Diamond

Trillion Cut Diamond

The Trillion Cut Diamond is a great option for those who like something out of the box because this shape of diamond is neither round nor square, instead it is a completely unique triangle-shaped diamond.

With its ability to shine softly yet brilliantly, passersby are often stopped and stunned by it. The Trillion Cut Diamond claims its place in uniqueness easily.

  • Secret Buying Technique
    Trillion Cut Diamonds are an apt choice for a center-piece in an engagement ring, it could also be used as a decorative diamond which encircles the main diamond. When you order a trillion cut diamond engagement ring, I recommend you use a 3 prong setting which will hold all the edges of the diamond to protect it from chipping.
  • Pros
    Its unique shape transforms its wearer to appear quick, agile and modern. Its larger table width also makes this type of diamond appear larger than the others of the same carat.

Diamond Shape VS Diamond Cut – What’s the Difference?

perfect vs poor cut diamond

The words “Diamond Shape” and the word “Diamond Cut)” are often misunderstood because some might think they are the same word. They are actually two words with completely different meanings.

  • Diamond Shape refers to the concept I have explained since the beginning of this article. It means the external characteristics of a diamond that is categorized into different shapes – round, heart, triangles and et cetera.
  • Diamond Cut refers to the symmetry, the quality of the details, the width, the depth and et cetera. They directly affect the brilliance and sparkle of a diamond.
    For example, if a princess cut diamond has been cut too deeply – it can seem dull and unresponsive to light. We could say that this diamond’s cut is bad, but we are still talking about a princess cut diamond, it cannot be any other shape of diamond. And so, if you choose a princess cut diamond with a high quality cut – it will make your diamond look brilliant and full of value.

Read more: What is an ‘ideal cut diamond’ and what makes it different?

Conclusion: Fancy Cut Diamonds May Be Your Final Answer!

Your knowledge in different shapes of fancy cut diamonds is a great opportunity to increase your choices for your next purchase. Whether you choose to purchase your diamonds online or in store, it would be my pleasure if you were to share the information on this article to your friends. My articles are written with one singular purpose – to share my knowledge which will benefit all diamond buyers without asking anything in return.

Lastly, the most important thing to keep in mind whilst buying a diamond is that you should select the diamond that suits you. The diamond should suit your personality, your style or the special occasion you plan to use your diamond on. For example, if you are looking for an engagement ring, you should ensure that your lover will truly fall in love with the ring at first sight and that they will still feel the same tingles every time they stop and look at their engagement ring.

If you are still not sure on which fancy cut diamond shape suits you best, contact us and we will help you select the best option for you.

Read more: In-depth look at 15 popular engagement ring styles

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